I can relate! I'm always buying a part I know I'm going to need soon (nothing critical... most of the time), then stashing it in the shop. I have a shop 15 minutes away on my brother's farm, and I don't get over there enough! So two months after stashing said part, I FINALLY have a free day! Perfect day to go do that bit of work on the hobby car. Get over there, spend an hour or more trying to find said part, and end up spending half the day going to get another, or ordering another. Not a lot of 63 Rambler parts in the stores these days, though mine is a resto-mod with some newer parts... late 80s and early 90s... some of which are usually not in stock but available in a day or two... So can't get that work done! Naturally I run across the originally purchased part once the new one has arrived, sat 2-3 weeks in it's stashed space, and I finally get a day to go put it on. Usually lay my hand right on it within minutes (ok, sometimes hours, days, or weeks) of installing the most recently bought one! Naturally it's been six months or more, can't return the first one... and probably won't remember where it was stashed if I need another... but I just KNOW I have a spare in here somewhere!! ... View more

Exactly! More than one person has seen my 1963 Rambler wagon at a show and commented that they "haven't seen one in ages, must be worth a lot." My answer: "If it was the last one in existence and no one wanted it, what would it be worth?" Ponder that a bit. POPULARITY drives car prices a whole lot more than rarity. If there are 20,000 still around and EVERYONE wants it, it's still going to command a good price -- early Mustangs are the best example. ... View more

I'd liked to have read more about the motorhome. It needs some renovation so it can be driven instead of flat bedded!!! Surely they can pull that old 390 FE and stick modern 3rd gen F250 6.2L and five or six speed auto trans, with appropriate rear axle gearing, in it?!! That would update it into a good driver. ... View more

A lower powered gasoline engined Corvette hybrid that uses the electric motor as an acceleration booster would be.... interesting. Some other hybrids did it that way, such as the first Honda Accord hybrid (2206-2007). Range on pure electric was minimal, IIRC something like 40-50 miles, but that wasn't the purpose of the electric motor -- it was to boost power when needed for acceleration (such as taking off and passing) so that a smaller, more economical gas engine could be used for cruising. Combined power was more than the V6, and using the electric motor as a booster improved economy. "The Accord Hybrid combines a V6 gasoline engine and an electric motor to provide significantly more power: 253 horsepower vs. 244 for the gasoline-only V6. It also gets substantially better fuel economy: 30/37 miles per gallon City/Highway vs. 21/30 for the standard V6." (from https://www.carsdirect.com/honda/accord-hybrid/generations) ... View more

I had a T250 in the early 90s. Actually, it started out as a T350, which was actually 305cc. I suspect it was called a 350 due to the Honda 350s popularity, and a two stroke 305 has a bit more pep than a four stroke 350 anyway... but that's just speculation on my part. I bought a well worn T350 from a guy. It had to have the timing bumped WAY up just to run. The guy who helped me get it running (close to) right cautioned me that something wasn't up to snuff -- shouldn't be firing right at TDC! Well, after a few weeks running he was proven right -- burned a hole in a piston. He just happened to have a T250 with good jugs and pistons but a trashed lower end. Only took five minutes to figure out the T250 and T350 engines were virtually the same -- rods were the same length, just bore was smaller on the 250. So in about an hour I had a good running T250! Shortly after I found a T500. That was the most fun bike I ever had, especially after I filed the piston at the ports on a bike shop mechanics advice (he had raced two stroke Kawasakis). Took the top speed down about 15 mph, but from zero to 80 it would best the 1980 GS1000 I bought a couple years later. Now by 80 mph the GS was finally catching up and passing, but it had to work to get there! The worked over T500 topped out about 95, the GS over 110 (as far as I ever took it... and it obviously had a bit more!). A guy on a Honda 750, late 80s vintage, challenged me to a stoplight race once. He looked over and saw the T500 badges and twin cylinders and knew he had me. I let him get about 1.5 bike lengths ahead of me before I went past him like he put on the brakes. He wouldn't even look at me at the next light. Two strokes really like to run at WOT... I miss the T500. The T250 was just too small for anything more than running around town. Took it on a four hour trip once, with two hours on the interstate. Not fun trying to hold 65-70 in rolling hills (between Greensboro, GA, and Aiken, SC on I-20). Had to draft a couple trucks... ... View more

I thought the Ford Tri-Motor was a copy of a Fokker also, but the Fokker Tri-Motor came a few years AFTER the Ford. From an aircraft site (https://www.airliners.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=321911 😞 "The only thing in common between the two other than both being high winged trimotors is that they were designed around the same time. The first Ford Trimotor model that went into production, the 4-AT, was introduced in 1926; the Fokker F.7, was introduced in 1925 as a single engine a/c, but didn't become a trimotor until it was modified into one in 1928. The first true trimotor built by Fokker was the F.10, which was introduced in 1927. There are notable differences between the two types. First off, the tail. The Ford Trimotors had a more squared and angular tail, while the F.7 had a more rounded tail. Then there's the materials the a/c are built out of. The Ford Trimotor was a metal a/c (Which gave it the nickname of the "Tin Goose") while the F.7 still used fabric and wood. " ... View more

For a car that rough to reach 63% of it's value may be just that someone got caught up in a bidding war, or they just have more money than they know what to do with. I think restoring the underside and mechanicals (and I suppose at least SOME of the interior -- like the seats) is not doing the car justice. If it were a rat rod or hot rod, maybe, but it's not. Restore the thing to it's former glory! An interesting side note: The Pantera killed the AMX III. AMC execs were going to make a limited run of 50 or so AMX III models. Then Ford dealers got the Pantera. The AMX III was similar, but would cost a lot more. AMC execs decided to not produce the AMX III, as even at the high price they would need to sell at it would have been a money loser, and since you could get a similar car (two seater, mid engine V-8, Italian style) from Ford for a good bit less, they just didn't think they could sell 50 a year for 3-4 years. ... View more

No need for a 3/4 ton truck unless you need it for the hauling or towing capacity! The suspension has to be stiff to haul the weight. Did you need something capable of towing 14,500 pounds? The 1500 is rated at 12,200 max... that's more than enough for most people. That Roxor doesn't weigh that much... neither would a 65 Chevelle SS (about 3200 curb weight, plus another say 3200 for a good enclosed trailer with brakes... 6,400...). Gross weight of a 31' Jayco fifth wheel travel trailer is right at 11,000. What are you pulling??? I'm so glad someone else "gets" that modern trucks have let styling and bragging rights overcome practicality!! I run a handyman service since retiring from the USAF. My work truck is a 2003 Toyota Tundra that was ridiculed back then as being a "7/8ths size truck" compared to it's American competitors. Well, it's the PERFECT size!! I'm 6', but I can reach at least 1/3 of the way across the bed from the side (Tundra Limited, not 4x4, but 4.7L V-8). Can't do that with anything made since Toyota increased the size of the Tundra in 2007 to match the size of the American full size trucks. Why? The 2006 Tundra sold well! The center console is only 10" or so wide rather than 16-18, but it's roomy enough for my 6' frame with a little to spare. Tow rating is a little low at 7400 pounds, but it's enough for most of what I do (until wife wanted a bigger camper than our 26'... which was maxing out the truck once loaded. A little slow up hills in the SC and NC Rockies, but not a big deal). But I can WORK OUT OF THE BED without having to climb up on a tire/step or into the tailgate all the time. The upper edge of the bed is 3-4" taller on newer trucks! It's not like someone is loading them with sand or something up to the top edge and need the depth -- it's just for styling! If the cab were a bit smaller and the truck not so jacked up in the suspension the bed wouldn't need to be so high to look right, and you could work out of it! I don't plan on working more than 4-6 more years (just turned 60 last December), but it the engine or trans goes I'll probably rebuild or try to find a good used one -- or another 2000-2006 Tundra. Since I now have an Expedition to tow the camper, I'd even consider a V6 model, but might want more than the 4800 pound towing capacity... just in case... The V6 averages 2 mpg more than the V8, so not that much difference... can only go about 200 more miles a year (I average 20K a year) for the same money. ... View more

For starters, most would be thieves aren't even going to know what a 914 is. Not many on the road today, and not easy to sell parts from. Sort of like my Rambler. Of course it has no shift quadrant on the column, so you have to know where the gears are. But it's an automatic, so that won't stop any determined thief, Drive is still the third position down from Park. Of course it almost always jumps straight to neutral, but if you pull it down twice after that you're still in 3rd (it's a Jeep AW4 four speed... 3+OD), so you'll be good. Almost. this trans has no computer. Instead there is a little metal box with a rocker switch and a rotary switch hanging off the right side of the console next to the driver's knee, or thereabouts. Right where you can easily keep your elbow on the center arm rest and turn the rotary switch (or hit the rocker). That rotary is really how you shift gears without a computer. The AW4 simply powers a combo of the two shift solenoids to shift, so it was easy to make a switch do the computing with a couple diodes. Both on is first, both off is fourth (OD), and the other two are one on/one off. I forget which is which, but that's what the diodes are for! I originally used a pair of toggles (mainly to test the solenoids when the spinner in the trans for the speed sensor lost it's magnet... and I thought the shift computer fried), but that was too easy to mix up 2nd and 4th gears. You CAN pull the shift lever all the way down and shift it manually with the lever instead of using the switch box, but I bet anyone trying to make away with it gives up by this time -- or they burn the trans or engine up by revving the heck out of it in first gear because it doesn't automatically shift "like it should".... Yeah, there are niceties about owning a not popular car with a few quirks.... ... View more

That's especially true if you're adding an aftermarket system. A larger capacity radiator will be a must! I would think the article is referring to factory A/C systems, but I'm sure some of these cars didn't have such a factory option. Factory systems almost always have a greater capacity cooling system to handle the added cooling load. I had to increase the size of the radiator and cooling fan to reliably use the A/C in my 63 Rambler Classic in temps over 90 degrees -- when you really want/need the A/C! ... View more

Would be a great fun "toy". Along the lines of a Polaris Slingshot, but a lot less... of everything. It's really more in line with the 1920s and 30s cycle cars. I'd like to see some plans for the thing -- shouldn't be too hard to duplicate. A VW based rail buggy also comes to mind -- there were some canvas panels kits made for them to provide a little driver protection from dirt and mud. ... View more

I'd like to see the "military vehicle" version... ... View more

bradfa says it all! 2nd car/commuter (work) car, electric is great! Primary family car? Not so much. Can't go but so far without a long wait, and can't pull a camper (even a small one) without killing range -- the main problem I have with electric trucks. As for the Bus... it looks like an enlarged Mini or restyled any other crossover. Nothing special except nostalgia, and not really all that much except outer styling. The flat nose a bit unique, that's about all. Driver still sits behind the axle like any other car, not over/in front like the old bus (safer that way, of course...). Sort of like the new Beetle was originally, then they goofed up the looks by making it wider... though the roomier version was a bit more practical. ... View more

The simplest way around the emissions requirement is to go EV. Not that much of a negative today when you can get 200-400 miles batteries... at a price. The other way is to use a crate type engine and all it's accoutrements. It's already emissions certified. If I understand correctly the drivetrain is certified to the chassis, but as long as the new installation mimics the original it should pass the same (same general exhaust system, etc.). I suspect that's the way most will go. So if I get a wrecked rear drive Dodge Charger and planted the drivetrain in say a 69 Camaro, and used close to the original Dodge exhaust (cats and all), it should pass emissions for the year of the donor car. That may not be good enough for current standards -- depends on the year of the donor. But a newly manufactured unit should. ... View more

I like the stretched wheelbase and the interior. Like the head rest extensions. I can live with the grille and front end. The "bullet" taillights would have to go -- the two round ones would be better. Not so sure about the fake side pipes, raked windshield is okay but I could live without it. If the hood wasn't lengthened the windshield wouldn't look right. But it's not my design! Might be cool just to own a Barris creation if I had lots of storage and money... ... View more

Really nice line-up! Should have skipped the last two and titled the article "5 under $10K" though. The Opel is valued at over $10K for a prime example, but you found one WELL under that -- and one in less than top notch condition would sell for under the $12,400 valuation anyway... ... View more

Not an entirely new idea. Wasn't it Saturn that had a solenoid shifted manual trans with a torque converter? Ok, no clutch, but the trans box itself was an electrically shifted manual. AMC also had an automatic clutch that had some of the Ford features -- mainly switches in the shifter to engage/disengage an automatic clutch. The Rambler E-stick (62-64) used engine oil pressure to activate a servo to operate the clutch -- but in reverse. The more the servo pushed on the clutch fork the harder the clutch was engaged. Theory was good -- more engine rpm = more oil pressure and more pressure on the clutch. Didn't need so much cruising, and oil pressure increased on acceleration. The downfall was that there was still a good amount of clutch slipping, and it was still a dry clutch disc (though larger than normal stick shift). Drive it in town a lot and you went through a clutch disc every year. Apparently some fleet companies bought them as cheaper alternatives to the auto for delivery use and they went through discs about every six months, eliminating any cost savings. Still had to shift gears, just no clutch. The electric servo idea is much better than the E-stick, especially without oil pressure fluctuations -- just applied or not. If it has some sort of capability to sense how fast it needs to shift (accelerometer?) it may work well. ... View more

I liked the Shooting Brake, but for the money I'd go all out on another two or three mid 60s Rambler wagons. I drive one now -- with Jeep 4.0L, complete with EFI and AW4 auto trans (built as an everyday driver, wasn't looking for Autobahn speeds!). 90s T-bird rack and pinion steering and an 88 Jag XJ6 IRS top the package off, with 79 AMC Spirit front disc brakes. Considered Jag four piston front discs -- until I got ahold of some calipers. Those things are HEAVY!!! Has plenty braking power, but I still look at four piston calipers every now and then... My only real complaint is a little vibration at speed due to the IRS. It's rubber mounted like in a Jag, but the leading arms are now tubular with heim joints at the swing arm and large RideTech rubber bushed rod ends at the body. The RideTech rubber ends are softer than polyurethane, but they still transmit a bit of vibration from the axle -- the original Jag bushings and arms couldn't easily be used, and those bushings are real compliant. Would take a bit of body work to remove the gutters to reduce wind noise, something those cars were criticized a bit for even when new. Given enough time and money I could fix that and build 2-3 Rambler "cruising wagons", and with enough power and stability to just about keep up with that Vantage. Nothing a twin turbo LS wouldn't easily fix... ... View more

I don't call hanging the front forks and tire over the tailgate an out the back as "fitting with room to spare", I'd say "you can make it fit... sort of". You need one of those gate guard/extensions like they sold for the Explorer Sport. It MIGHT "fit" then... The 4' bed is a good trash hauler, mostly. Ford should consider Chevy's "Avalanche" concept for the Maverick if they want to make it more useful. ... View more

That's correct, though I doubt things would have gone much differently had George Mason lived. Mason had orchestrated a hand-shake deal with Nance for AMC and Studebaker-Packard (S-P) to share some parts manufacturing right before he suddenly got ill and died (of pancreatitis and pneumonia). Nance repeatedly rejected bids from AMC for various reasons, but the true reason was that he felt that AMC needed him (S-P V-8s, specifically), but he didn't really need AMC. I doubt he'd have done more than piss Mason off like he did Romney. Romney ordered his engineering department to develop a V-8 ASAP, and they did it in 18 months! Remember, this was slide rule and drawing board days, a clean sheet design can hardly be developed and put in production that fast with computers now! They did sort of cheat though. AMC Engineering hired Davis Potter from Kaiser, who had worked on a prototype V-8 for that company. The AMC Gen1 250/287/327 has a little resemblance to the Kaiser prototype, but it's not a copy or improved version -- it's a clean sheet design. Still, having an engineer with V-8 design experience sped things up significantly. ... View more

I have to agree with "the CUV is a modern sedan" idea! Compare it to an even older car, like the Model A Ford, and it's even more apparent than a later 30s car. Even some of the 50s cars have a high enough seating position to make the point, though they have more of an extended trunk area. The underpinning of a modern CUV are pretty much the same as the sedans they replaced also, which gives them the more comfortable sedan-like ride versus the older small SUVs with a more truck-like ride -- say the old Escape vs. the newer one. Performance and handling is much better also, on a par with the sedans they replaced. I haven't really looked into it, but I'm pretty sure the later Escapes are based on the Fusion platform... ... View more

I believe he was just indicating that it's not really a "secret recipe", that's all. The timing delay and however the engine is built (in particular the cam choice) means a lot. Supposed to be stock displacement, but I would think a slight overbore for wear (like 0.030" or even 0.060") is allowed. Small overbores don't add enough power to be a concern. Even on a big block 0.060" over only adds a couple inches at most. ... View more

I have a 1963 Rambler Classic station wagon. No more in junkyards, and people who do find a decent parts car want a lot. "I haven't seen one in years (or ever), it's rare so must be worth a lot". $2500 for a rusted out car with few really good parts, and none of the ones that are really needed, like the (sun baked) plastic side panels in the cargo area. My car is customized enough I can change things without worrying about it, but for those with restored cars it's always been an "adventure" finding good mall parts. It's not a popular nor expensive make. Few want to spend $200 each for reproduction vent window seals (someone is trying to get some made, not sure what prices will end up being) for their $1500 find. There were a lot made, but slow parts sales in junkyards meant that they (all Nash/Rambler/AMC cars!) were some of the first to go to the crusher. If you have a $500,000 Packard you don't flinch much on paying a couple hundred on a small part that is needed. Few Ramblers are valued over $20K, and those are the late 60s muscle cars most with the AMC badge (the 69 SC/Rambler and 57 Rebel are probably the only two with the Rambler name!). I was feeling your pain well before you were having it! ... View more

Old tech is GOOD in a truck, especially a work truck. My wife's 2013 has TOO MUCH STUFF on the steering wheel and display! Easy to get distracted while trying to remember what everything does. The less to distract the driver the better, but then I suppose you can put it on SuperCruise while you try to figure it out. Just give me the basics -- what I REALLY NEED and leave the rest out. By the way, did anyone else note that this i really an updated Avalanche?? ... View more

It was simply an unneeded asset that took one hell of a lot of money just to get it off the ground. It really couldn't do anything that satellites and drones can't do now. I was a Search and Rescue controller on Okinawa in the late 80s. The "Habu" (what the Okinawans called the Blackbird -- after a deadly poisonous snake found on Okinawa, I think only there -- https://theaviationgeekclub.com/exclusive-the-story-of-how-iconic-sr-71-blackbirds-habu-logo-was-conceived/) was stationed there with the 9th Strategic Recon unit. I got to witness take-off preparations and eventual take-off of one. The prep took a crew of 20 or so (I forget exactly how many) doing all sorts of things. Prep had to start at least 30 minutes (look it up... I'm going from memory here!) before take-off to get fluids up to a temp they would flow at ambient temps (and it was hot and humid in the summer there!) and so the least amount of fuel leaked out (fittings and such had to have enough room for expansion at high temps/speed, so they all leaked!). There was an in-flight emergency and the runway was shut down for an additional 30 minutes or so while this was going on -- what a mess! Lots of wasted fuel and fluids as the team kept it ready to go as soon as the runway cleared Luckily the IFE wasn't much and the aircraft landed and cleared the runway, but there was still a hazardous mess to clean up -- the crew wasn't happy! After take-off the first thing an SR-71 did was meet up with a tanker to top off. Due to the leakage they only put enough on to take off and get to the rendezvous point (with a bit to spare in case of emergency, of course). Then it topped off and shortly after got up to speed. Those J58s drank fuel at low altitude/speed/take-off -- as noted, they were most efficient at high speed. It cost thousands just to get it in the air!! ... View more

The best road food is one I can't get in SC, and may no longer be available. When I was stationed at Mountain Home AFB, ID (83-87), there was a place called "Taco John's". They served a deep fried beef or bean burrito in a sleeve that was about 1.25-1.50" in diameter and 7-8" long. Just push up out of the sleeve and bite! Nearest equivalent are the "Tornados" served at Circle K stores. They used to be on the roller grille and you could slip in in a sleeve, but most now have them in small boxes due to COVID. Still easy to hold and eat without making a mess while driving though. The French Toast and Sausage are the tastiest road trip breakfast!! My truck is my office, so a Polar Pop and FTS is a common hot and tasty breakfast for me!! ... View more

I was wondering how they handled charging the batteries until I read the "37-167 miles" of the stages. A standard ID.4 has a 240-249 mile range, so that wasn't a problem. I suspect the longer stages had the best roads and wouldn't eat up as much power as the harsher environments. So you could conceivably go out for a day of trails with an electric 4x4. Just have to remember that if the going is really tough you will cut your advertised ranger in half. I don't see too many people taking anything off-road for over 100 miles at a time. Might need to pack a generator to get back home though. electric is better for off-roading in one way though -- instant torque. Revving an engine up to get power then popping the clutch to get out of a hole is the best way to snap a driveshaft or axle -- and happens a lot. Won't have to do that with electric, but the torque can still twist or brake those parts if a wheel is stuck... ... View more

If it's hard, dirty work, kids today want nothing to do with it, that's a fact! $15 an hour to start with no benefits for the first 30-90 days is probably fair, but some benefits need to kick in after that "trial" period... or a noticeable raise if they have to pay for their own health insurance and such. I'm a handyman and pay my helper $22 an hour (no benefits). Of course that's only BILLABLE hours though. I live in a rural area and drive 1.5-2.0 hours of every day -- not paid. We average five billed hours a day. He does have one benefit -- I buy lunch every day and any water/sodas we drink. If a job is particularly hard I may charge a little more, and if I do (or the customer tips) I split the extra 60/40 with him. You have to pay for good help if you want to keep it and encourage it to continue to be good help!! Take care of your people and most will take care of the job -- you get rid of the ones who take advantage. ... View more

So it's more of one of the small to mid size crossover vehicles rather than a true SUV. More akin to my wife's Escape than a Jeep Grand Cherokee... Got to admit that one reason for buying the Escape (over an Edge) was the sporty handling and "go" of the Ecoboost engine. ... View more

To each his own. To me it's not worth anything near what it brought, but then my 63 Rambler isn't worth to others what it's worth to me. Shortly after I (more or less) finished it in 2003 I took it to a local cruise-in. A fellow bugged me several times, asking what I would sell it for. He was a tire kicker, not really interested, that I could tell. Well, the last time he came by I told him he could have it today for $20 grand. He was a bit surprised! Asked if it was really worth that much. I told him no, it was probably worth $12-15K as it was (a mild custom, Jeep 4.0L drivetrain), but it would take $20K to get it. No more bugging me! Someone grew up with a GTi or wanting one bad, and now has more money than they know what to do with. If I had a lot of disposable income there are a lot of cars I'd buy, but coming up having to work for everything I have and be a bit conservative with the little disposable income I did have, I think I'd make wiser purchases today. There is no one car I just "have to have". If I wanted a GTi turbo and it went this high in an auction, I'd have just waited for another to come around or purchased a couple and built one. It's not worth that much as an original with low mileage... TO ME... ... View more

The only problem with MAPP gas is that it's not longer made! Methylacetylene-propadiene propane was made by Linde, a division of Union Carbide. They stopped manufacturing it in early 2008 for some reason. Hotter than propane (up to 5300 degrees F with oxygen, 3670 F in air -- propane is 3596 F in air, 4087 F with oxygen). True MAPP was often used by the HVAC industry for hard soldering. While it's only a tad over 70 F hotter in air, it was enough to make a difference! Much safer than inherently unstable acetylene (which gets as high as 6300 F). Bernz-O-Matic says their MAP-PRO gas gets up to 3730 F in air. In my experience the substitutes don't usually get as hot in air as the old MAPP though. I found the "3596 F in air" value on the Internet, but I'm skeptical. Thermadyne says MAP-PRO is 14% less effective than MAPP, but 10% more effective than Propane (so MAPP is about 24% better than propane). No temps were given. That sounds about right in my experience! You could do some light welding with MAPP, not recommended with MAP-PRO (or MAP -- only one P). ... View more

It would be a lot easier to manufacture with that roof! With the exterior decor I'd think this was intended to be more of a park model rather than a constantly towed travel trailer. Looks like someone "fixed" the roof by covering with a heavy tarp and screwing it down along the sides. Surely the roof didn't come like that from the factory! Unfortunately I can't read the German description. Pics show a well thought out interior for a early 80s trailer. As someone else pointed out, it must be well built to last so long in such relatively good condition, though owner care and maintenance plays a big part as well. ... View more

To get a better idea of what it would cost for all necessary components check out the complete EV kits at https://legacyev.com/collections/legacy-kits. Starts at $17,800 for a 127hp 91 mile range kit with ALMOST everything you'd need, and go up to $66,800 with 473 hp/264 mile range. Description for the kits say that all the essentials are there and that they use top notch components (Tesla battery packs). You would still need to fab mounts and such specific to your vehicle. The Hyper 9 motor they use retails for a little more than the Ford motor, but comes WITH a controller -- $4200 vs. $3900. Since controllers run in the $1200-1500 range for high voltage/output, that makes it a bit lower cost than the Ford unit, but the Ford unit appears to be ready for a half-shaft one each side and has mounting points on it. The Hyper 9 is a round motor with a single shaft on one end, made to go through a differential. Legacy EV shows a pickup frame with the motor installed, no transmission, but you could adapt to a trans. You could shop around and use lower cost components, and if you wanted to keep a transmission you could use a lower power motor. ... View more

My bet is that Ford didn't have that many electric conversion motors to sell. It's the same thing they use in their Mach-E (I still can't call it a "Mustang"!!), and I bet that takes priority. So they had a few extras lying around, why not see if they will sell? You still need some type of controller, they run as low as ~$500 for up to 72 volts, but if you want some power and range you have to step up to a $1400 72-120V controller. That's not all the controls needed -- throttle, battery management, etc. -- figure another $1200 for that, and wiring and connectors. Then you have a $5K+ battery pack, depending on how far you want to go on a charge ($5K would get you about 50 miles of range in a Miata sized car with LiFePO4 batteries -- new). My best guess is that $3900 motor package is at the minimum 1/3 of the total cost needed, and then if you do the work yourself. See https://www.electriccarpartscompany.com/ and http://www.ev-propulsion.com/EV-calculations.html. If you're paying for all the fab work to mount the motor and needed suspension conversion work, the motor cost is probably closer to 1/6 the total conversion cost. Plus the cost of the vehicle being converted. I'd hope you can recoup a bit of money by selling of the no longer needed engine, trans, and other parts though. Really depends on condition and what you're converting. ... View more

Definitely an expensive hobby if your car of choice is a 1930s Bentley! I'm just glad they aren't afraid to drive the things. I don't think I'd take one on a cross country rally though! Maybe a 1930s Dodge... ... View more

An electric conversion of a classic is easier in some ways than an engine swap. Something as mundane and relatively common as the F-100 truck I don't mind, or a kit-car Cobra. A real collectible classic is a different story!! From what I can gather the Ford motor basically mounts like a typical transverse mount engine/transmission, but more centered so the half shafts are more or less equal length on each side (depending on the chassis). So it would take the place of the differential in a rear drive IRS type setup, and you'd have IRS, of course. Intriguing... but I'm not in line to get one for a build. ... View more

Well, the fuel pump went from age and non-use, which isn't a big surprise really. Things like that need to be run to prevent seals from drying up and such. I want a used Metro, but I don't want to preserve it! I want the drivetrain for a Morganesque three wheeler build... Still, I could see someone paying what would be a high amount for this car. In another 20 years it will be the only under 1000 mile example out there... a preserved piece of history. Close to $20K though ($18.5K 11/03/21 with one day to go)? That's a good bit higher than I expected. $12-15K maybe... ... View more

In the end, for a little over $12K you can have a Porsche instead of a Mustang (as tested prices). The Porsche is likely to hold value better, but probably not much more than the GT500. Still, not as much of a price difference unless you get a base model GT500. This is really an apples/oranges comparison. Typically, those who like something like the Porsche can contend with the Mustang, but not the other way around. Depends on what you like, and what you intend to do with the car. Just short commutes and some autocrossing on weekends? The Porshce might be the better choice. A lot more driving time (longer commutes and/or trips) and the Mustang would surely be more comfortable -- and still able to do the autocrossing weekends. ... View more

Well, times and styles change. It's very similar to other cars of that era, nothing really sets it out above others (like Packards) except that it's a one-off custom built body and an excellent restoration. There were some more graceful designs in the late 20s, like the 27 Cord L-29, but many were similar to this one. ... View more

Too much power in a light car can be dangerous. Spotted a 32 roadster with a 350/Roots blower in it at a rod shop getting a bent frame rail fixed. How did that happen? Owner was at a rod run and someone mentioned that they bet it would break the rear wheels (about 18" wide tread) wheels loose at 60 mph or better! Owner said he didn't know. Well, on the way home on the Interstate with little to no traffic he decided to find out! Not thinking it would, he floored it at about 65 mph. The limited slip diff locked right up as it should, rear wheels broke loose easily, and he was sideways before he could get his foot off the floor due to the big surprise! Ended up hitting a guard rail right near the end of the rail, just behind the front wheel. I'd think a Viper with a power adder and/or wet road would do something similar. Maybe the later 645hp model would do it without a power adder... ... View more

I don't remember the details, or where to find them right now, but the car was modified to make that spiral jump. I swear that at least the Javelins used in the stunt show that toured the country had the driver's seat moved to the center, but can't find that reference now. Might have been for a different stunt. The only detail I could find about the Astro-Spiral cars was that a small fifth wheel was added under the differential to kick the rear end up a bit when leaving the take-off ramp. There was a special track on the ramp for the wheel. Of course safety equipment was added -- like the roll bar. ... View more

So it really doesn't need much more than a 25-30 mile electric range, and doesn't have to hit highway speeds. An electric conversion would be relatively cheap and easy, I could do that in my home shop in a couple weeks and even use regular old deep cycle lead-acid batteries. ... View more

Maybe it's just my preference for AMC cars, but they had several designer interiors for 1972 and a few years after that are sought after today. Pierre Cardin for the 72 Javelin, Gucci for the 72 Hornet Sportabout (wagon), Oleg Cassini for the Matador Coupe. The Ambassador Brougham models )top of the line) were always rather plush, but AMC didn't have a designer interior for their luxury flagship. Probably because it was already planned to be phased out after the 74 model year. Nash had some fancy interiors in their Ambassadors also, one in the early to mid 50s with a "club" seating arrangement in the rear -- the back seat was two seats inclined toward each other with a large triangular arm rest between them. ... View more

I wasn't aware of the capacitor problem, but did know that the electronics were an issue with the Electrojector as temps rose -- that explains why. According to AMC documents the Electrojector worked great in a 40-90 degree outside temp environment, get much out of that range (or in the high 80s in humid weather) and it wasn't very reliable. That's the main reason they didn't release any production cars after showing it off at Daytona in two new 1957 Rambler Rebels. AMC documents state that several Electorjector cars were made for testing, but AMC historians can only verify that two were made since two show up in photos together at Daytona. Probably at least one more left at the factory, but no documents give a number. Newer electronics solved the heat issue, Bosh solved the cold start problem by adding a temp sensor and an extra injector in the intake (you can see it in the diagram) that acts like a carb's choke. ... View more

The GC isn't really designed to be run on battery alone, but it apparently can be. The battery is really a power booster for when extra power is needed -- hence the "hybrid" moniker instead of all-electric. So cruising down the road the little 2.0L turbo engine will carry things along just fine, but stop and when you take off the electric motor kicks in to help, increasing power for a quick and smooth take-off without straining that little motor. The instant torque an electric motor gives helps a lot here! Hybrids like this are a great solution, all battery power not so much. ... View more

The end of AMC wasn't quite as described. AMC was poised to bring in several Renault models and to build the new Premier in a new plant. They already had the Medallion which was a pretty good "mid size" car of the time. The Alliance COULD have been a great small car, but Renault insisted on keeping the little 1.4L engine despite AMC execs saying they'd be better served in the US with something a bit larger (Renault engineers basically told them they sold cars world-wide and weren't on the short end of a partnership -- they knew better). Had it debuted with the later 1.7L as stock and the GTA's 2.0L an option they would have lasted much longer. The little 1.4L wasn't terrible... around town. On a longer interstate trip though... There was another one or two cars to be imported from Renault, I'd have to look that up to name them, but the automotive press seemed to think the Renault/AMC partnership was finally coming together, especially after reviewing the new Premier (which saved Chrysler, by the way!). Alas, turmoil in France led to the CEO being assassinated by a French labor group (party?) due to Renault laying French workers off while pouring money into AMC (which would have paid off for French workers the following year with the imports!) , and the new CEO decided to sell AMC off rather than face the possibility of the same. ... View more

How much is restoration, and how much room do you personally have for improvements? Those little fans are pretty small and probably inefficient compared to a more modern multi-blade fan. While not accurate for a resto, it's one place I might bend since modern fans can be installed with little (if any) alteration. Ensuring that it keeps the engine cooled efficiently is better for it in the long run and would be worth the effort to me -- unless it does require a lot of alteration to fit better ones. Keep the old for returning to stock later. If you plan on driving it a lot, it would be a worthwhile consideration. Everything else looks modern enough, and those front brakes look like they would be at home on a full size American car. ... View more

Always loved the Bond cars! ... View more

5000 miles a year is daily driver territory for an old car. I put 5-7K a year on my 63 Classic when I was daily driving, another 4-5K a year on my motorcycle. I was USAF and took 3-4 16 hour round trip drives (800-900 miles) a year to visit family, usually one in my Rambler. I built it as a daily driver though, so it's modified (Jeep 4.0L EFI six and AW4 OD trans). I drove a 63 Rambler American the same way for 14 years though (starting in 84). It was my "second car", and if I went anywhere without the wife and kid I was in it. No bike then, but still 5-7K a year. A VW Bug (or any classic) as a second car would get about 5K average on it. Easy to see the age thing. I don't do many long distance shows at 60. Time isn't as much and issue, nor is money. I've "been there, done that" too often. Not much new or exciting about the big shows any more, certainly not enough to make a long trip just for that. I still do one on occasion though. Plan on driving to the Kenosha Homecoming show (AMC/Rambler) in 2022. It's only held every four years though. Wouldn't do it yearly! It's a 15-26 hour drive one way for me. ... View more

There will be some call for fossil fuels well into the future. Commuters may go to predominantly electric, but there are still many things that require more range and power than rechargeable electric vehicles can practically supply. There are ways around this, such as tractor/trailer rigs with easily swappable battery packs (like some electric fork-lifts have used since the 70s at least -- with heavy lead-acid battery packs) to increase range and time between trips. Lots of infrastructure to build though, and that's expensive -- more expensive than cleaning up fossil fuel emissions. With ranges coming up over the last 10 years I could possibly use an electric pickup (with a 200-250 mile range) in my home repair business. Lots of stops and starts sometimes, but I average 80 miles a day, with occasional days of 150 miles. The range is estimated under "normal" driving conditions. I would expect my driving to require a little more than normal, especially with occasionally hauling heavy loads or towing a small trailer. The longer trip days are more "normal" driving since they are usually jobs that are further away, or further from my material supply source. But I'm not eager to get one. I'll be retiring in 3-4 years, and cutting back a little in two. I don't see an electric in my future, though I'm not opposed to it as long as it will suit my needs. A more likely scenario is that people will use electrics for their daily driving, then rent a gasoline car for longer trips and vacations. I see a mix of electric and ICE cars on the road for a very long time... for various reasons. A bit different from horse vs. car, but not that much. ... View more