The first clue is that it is a British car. Back then they baked issues into the car. Then the author just was not thinking. Fools are so ingenious that is why nothing is foolproof. ... View more

My first swap was a Chrysler 383 with torqueflite in a 1956 Chev 2 dr post. Why did I do that? Well, in 1968 there were only 283 Chev V8s in salvage yards. No 327s, in fact it was rare to see a Chev with a 327. I wanted more power and for $150 at government salvage I got the 383 and I can't remember what I paid for the torqueflite. I drove that car for years through winters on bias ply summer tires. -40F.  I finally sold it in 1975. Then I put a 289 in a first gen Ford Bronco. I bought it as a 1964 but now I find 1966 were the first. I drove that all over as well. Finally someone drove me off the road and I wrecked it. Years after I bought a C class motorhome with 350. Pulled that and installed a Chev 400. Took it to Disneyland twice. My last is also current. 1997 BMW 318i with a 600 hp LS custom engine and T56 trans. I have had that for 4 or 5 years now. Still enjoy it. Although I do have an annoying whine. "No AC, it is too loud, it rides rough, you drive jerky" ... View more

Once again I am the weird person in the crowd. I find the journey of fixing a car most satisfying. Once it is fixed and drivable I find it less interesting. In fact because I know all the work and mechanical bits I keep being concerned that they all keep working.  Maybe it is a little of the mechanics make poor race car drivers. We don't want to hurt the car. Others drive with the ignorance is bliss attitude. ... View more

My father had a 1956 Chev 4 door hardtop with 265 and manual. Oh to have that today. He always drove 65mph even pulling a small trailer. Never a problem. In fact I had a 57 Chev and drove that same speeds in mid sixties. The big difference today is overdrive transmissions, computer controlled ignition and much better machining for all parts. My father used to brag that he got 107,000 miles out of the 56 Chev. That was not that common. Now instead of running 2500 to 3000 rpm at 65 mph engines will run 1500 to 1800 at that speed. Plus with computer controlled ignition, gas is not washing down the cylinders every time an engine is started. No wonder 100,000 miles is just getting broken in! ... View more

I always have a 6x9" coil notebook for every project. I write everything down as I am doing it. Part numbers and orders. Every bolt torqued down. Sketches of how things are laid out. Wire diagrams. Everything. Later when I wonder did I do something I can look back and see that I did. I might end up with a 100 pages. Plus very important, DATE EVERYTHING including the year. ... View more

Had you bought a nicer car it would have almost certainly just had paint polished and corrected. Interior detailed, oil changed and leaks fixed. Then you would have had to do all the work anyway. I buy cheapest rust free car I can get and know everything has been neglected so I know everything needs fixing. Might as well start from a lower base price. ... View more

Within our local BMW club I am known as they guy who brings them back from certain death. 95 318is, 97 328is, 97 M3 sedan, 99 M3 convertible, 97 318is, 02 325i, 04 330ix, 02 M3,  04 M3,  2013 528ix. Sold some of them and have others as well.  Brought a few other brands back as well. ... View more

My father had a 1956 Chev BelAire 4 dr hardtop. It was Yellow and Black. Interior headliner was Yellow Vinyl with many holes. The seats had Black cloth inserts with Yellow Vinyl. I remember thinking at the time how bright it was inside the car. Unfortunately for me I did not speak up when he went to trade it in. He would have given it to me. One of life's regrets. It was a 265 manual as well. ... View more

On my driveway I have a 97 BMW M3 sedan that I rebuilt. Right behind it is another 97 BMW 3 series sedan with a 600hp GM LS. In my garage I have a 2006 CTSV and a 2016 ATSV plus in storage 2 BMW E46 M3s. Don't have to go far! ... View more

Rebuilt 1997 M3 engine. Fired it up and noisy ticking sound at front. I replaced lifters, checked the main and rod bearings. Checked under valve cover many times. Finally, I looked at the secondary chain tensioner. It is an alum piece with an alum piston. It was completely worn out. It was also about the only thing I had not replaced and I had taken it off and on many times while troubleshooting. It was about $50.00 and took half hour to replace. Noise was gone. Also I bought my son a different car to use for traveling across the country, $7000+. All for a $50.00 part! ... View more