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Hagerty Employee

No, you don't need racing oil in your daily driver | Hagerty Media

If there is one tired-out thought that needs to go away in the car world, it is that race car parts always make a street car better. The vast majority of the time using speed parts on a street car creates a machine with a lot of compromises-which is not in itself better.
Advanced Driver

Diesel spec 15w40 is ideal for flat tappet cam high performance engines especially those with solid lifter flat cam applications. Use diesel spec HD30 in your old GM, Ford and Chrysler engines, those before catalytic converters. The best engine assembly lube in my opinion is STP oil treatment. It's cheep and it is loaded with ZDDP. Great for initial start up and cam brake-in.
Intermediate Driver

No .. no .. sorry:
Race engine tolerances are virtually ALWAYS much LOOSER than
any factory street engine meant to last hundreds of thousands of miles.
[Recall 'Smokey Yunick' and his 'barely together' motors which were magically
beginning to come apart at the finish line after winning the race.]
Advanced Driver

Sorry, Mr. Smith, but I beg to differ. The GM-built crate flat tappet crate engine in one of my lightly-used classic trucks ate three cam lobes and lifters after 24,000 miles and fifteen years of use. The oil was changed twice a year regardless of mileage, and the thing still bit me. I replaced the cam and lifters (upgrading to Crower CamSaver lifters in the process) and added Valvoline Premium Blue oil. The amount of ZDDP in non-diesel spec oils is most definitely inadequate for old flat tappet gasoline engines. And the ZDDP additives must be used with caution, because too much can coat the cross-hatch on the cylinder surface, causing excessive oil consumption. Racing oil with a high (relatively speaking) level of zinc would be better than a non-racing lubricant when looking to keep a 60's or 70's era engine alive.