I can enjoy sorting the problems of installing a flat crank Coyote V8 here with much more satisfaction.
If you want to play with electric and sort out issues wire more outlets in you garage.
With my Coyote I would leave you behind. Especially on the Hot Rod Power Tour.
The concept truck uses two Eluminator motors, and the way it's tuned, total system power tops out at 480 hp. Bought as a single crate motor, the Eluminator makes 281 hp.
I think it means that this setup has dual motors like the Mach-E GT, but if just one crate motor gives the lower amount of power. (I should have refreshed before posting to see this was already answered.)
On your 351m, it has a lazy ignition curve, especially for a low compression engine. You’ll need to tinker with springs and weights, maybe take it to a shop that can recurve it if you’re not comfortable yourself. What initial and total amounts as well as rate depends on your gearing and transmission. 2V Cleveland’s and M’s have big chambers and low compression. This generally requires more advance for peak efficiency. In the 70s, in an effort to control NOx emissions total timing, initial and mech advance, was pulled way back. Again, each combination has its own sweet spot, but generally speaking you need more. You want to have a decent amount of initial, 10-16, then the rest in the distributor. Low-speed load vs total demand drives that amount as well as the rate of increase. So, testing is key. If you’re gonna carry a heavy load, you can always back 4 degrees out to be safe, but if you’re getting all your advance through the distributor you’ll suffer the common 70s Ford excess cranking and poor starting performance with little to no advance. I love around 14 degrees of initial advance. Makes the engine real snappy and starts like a dream.
Also, I’ve found in non-performance engines with less than 10:1 compression and a good cooling system, 89 octane is the best.
What carb are you running?
Connect your vacuum advance to a ported, not full manifold, source. Also, if you have cold weather performance problems installed a thermal vac switch, it will prevent advance when cold. Make sure the carb is tuned properly. Especially in steady-state. Part throttle excessively rich is pretty common and will kill fuel economy.
For the Dakota and the Ford, exhaust efficiency is a problem. Increase the efficiency there, you won’t see much in power, but your mileage will jump.
hope that helps.
I’d like a short bed, in-line 6, 3 on the tree so I can teach my kid to drive something that requires skill and understanding of a complex machine. Proper execution of a 2-1 downshift, while turning a corner in a non-power steering pickup, on a snow-covered street is the real driver’s test.
It seems most people are put off by replacing a gasoline engine with an electric motor in a classic vehicle. I agree that for some vehicles, that is blasphemy. But for some classics, the original engine wasn't anything more than a means of propulsion. Those giant motors sucking a gallon of gas every nine miles are good candidates for replacement. How about a '60s Lincoln Continental? The electric motor would provide that smooth, quiet glide that Lincoln wanted without any of the drawbacks of keeping the old motor on life support.