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I thought the answer is always Porsche Pasha?
They still make it.
Yes! The sister-car Olds Alero, particularly in stick shift form, seems particularly difficult to kill. Perforated bodies, no outer rockers --no problem!
They can say what they like but the Vega was the most perfect imperfect car.
Yes it rusted, yes it used oil but they ran for ever. Many in school would buy them as winter beaters and drive them in the winter. -25 below they fire right up and had heat. Most of us worked part time wrenching so used motor oil went in so no cost there.
One neighbor had one for several years to store his modified Blazer and he finally sent it to the junk yard. It was sold and went at least two more winters.
Few fooled with the Asian cars. They were more expensive to repair. In some cases more complicated and they also rusted out in major ways for a number of years.
High school lots here were full of GM cars that while not perfect just kept on running and remained affordable to keep on the road.
A bodies, Cruze, Cavalier, Cobalts etc all kept rolling along with the Baretta’s. Same for the S10 and most full size trucks.
The W body yet today has not been built for years but are so common on the road again for cheap easy repairs and cost along with the reliable 3800.
Most Hondas I have seen remove the seats to make ‘em faster.
Boy that is one rough Honda. That price for a car like that? Hmmmm.
The greatest challenge t most new cars today are that the interiors are not great and to restore it is near impossible as often the parts are non existent. Junk yards are now salvage yards that strip the mechanicals and seldom save the half way good interiors.
Few make repo parts once they NOS is gone.
Add to all this most people are pigs in their cars. I keep mine like new but most use their cars as dumpsters and often the interiors suffer for it.
In some cases we get lucky. I put a full customer interior in a Fiero courtesy of Mr Mike. He is a guy that makes leather kits for Fiero seats. Some are Fiero style for conversions. Some are stock style only in leather and others are made for street rods and Cobra kit cars as the seats fit many custom applications where size is a factor.
I started there and then used factory Pontiac items like a later radio with CD player and even a shift from another Pontiac.
I cracked open the dash and programed the dash from the 85 MPH with a diode and capacitor. My buddy a graphics artist made me new gauge faces that read much higher. He even added my last name and placed it in the center like where Smith gauges have their name.
I have custom glove box that matches the dash pod that was offered in the 80's. Added T tops and it changed the entire car.
Most cars are not that easy to make changes too like this and I was just lucky the aftermarket took interest in the 80's. Today I could be featured at Radwood for what it is worth.
To be honest, I have a plan for a 911 I may inherit some day. It is clean and rust free. 1985 911 Carrera. The interior is dry cracked due to the So Cal dryness. What I would like to do is leave it all stock with the cracks in the leather. But build up the engine of send it to Singer to rebuild it. Add the power and remain the low key 911 that looks stock.
This has always been a goal of mine. There are lots of cars I’ve loved that have been hamstrung by indifferent build quality, especially on the interior.
Get the powertrain, suspension and mechanicals right, and then make the interior and exterior better than new. But not in a Pimp My Ride kind of way
One of those cars is a 1995 (preferably 1996) through 1999 Buick Riviera, if I could find a good candidate and had the time and space.
I’ve also wanted to restore examples of my first and second cars, which were rough examples when I got my hands on them (a 1990 Accord EX Sedan and a 1997 Jetta GLX VR6, respectively).
I remember my brother showing me (instagram? youtube?) of a guy that does very nice upgrades on older (80s 90s I think it was) Mercurys. Replacing the plastic with wood sticker interior bits with real wood and so on.
Done right, this could be a pretty awesome thing to do for yourself. I have seen... not quality woodworking done on truck interiors and it didn't appeal to me. The execution has to be coachbuilder (or 1930s craftsman) good if you are going this route.
Unless you are making a clown car. Then have at it with the popsicle sticks and white glue.
This is my recommendation to most people anymore.
It used to be easy to fix up a car and still not go over value. Anymore that is not easy to do.
I tend to recomend buying low mile and in good condition vs fixing up unless you can do all the work yourself. Even then to buy replacement parts as near impossible.
By going low mile you may spend the money up front but you still have a better car and you don't have to fix it up.
In most cases in the snow states it is not the miles but the rust. Most cars go 12 years in salt before they start to rust if you care for them sooner if not. Some brands even sooner. Same with the road and pot holes. Many cars implode.
My son now has a 08 Malibu. He is finishing collage and by then it will have 100K mile. He will be debt free so we will shop for what he wants then. The Bu has been solid and has needed no real repair other than brakes and tires. The V 6 has been flawless for his needs. The rust is just starting under it so we will replace it while the paint is still bright and the interior like new.
This is why when you see a mint condition Accord from 20 years ago, people on BAT go crazy. Because these vehicles are born to be driven. So very few of them are around in good as new condition. Compare that to C4 Corvette ZR-1 and so many of those are in like new condition. 20-30 years later, an Accord or Civic in great shape is hard to find. A Corvette ZR-1 is easier to find.
I'm hoping (fingers crossed) to get my '04 CR-V to 300k (currently 230k).
My daughter thinks it is time to get rid of her 2011 Outback (189k), uhhhh, NO!