👍 Good list. Not sure why but I never remember the dialectic grease. Thanks for the reminder.
FWIW I also like to keep low-temp (silver) anti-seize around. In addition to being requisite on plug threads going into aluminum housings and heads, a small light skim coat on hubs is great for keeping drums and rotors from sticking/rusting to hub faces. It also keeps aluminum wheels from sticking to the steel hub bores. Just a dab on stud threads helps get an accurate torque with those same wheels.
Missing the most important one. Lighter fluid.
Lighter fluid is an oil, cleaner and an adhesive remover. It will remove many things that most other chemicals struggle with.
I used it for removing emblems from cars as it will not harm paint. It is also the recommended lube for soap box derby car wheels.
It is a flammable but most items that work are. But it also lacks much of the harsh things other flammable's have. But it is in a container that helps limit the flow. It also vanishes quickly with fumes that do not accumulate at high levels. due to the small use it needs to do the job.
I am not sure what I would do with out it.
Dielectric grease is an electrical insulator, it does not promote an electrical connection but actually serves to prevent one. This is a common misunderstanding in the automotive community. It's original marketing was as a "Tune-up Grease" for GM HEI distributor plug boots to prevent arcing through the boot, and made the boot easier to remove which helped protect the first generation of 8mm plug wires used on the HEI systems.
If you wish to use an electrically conductive grease, you can use "no-alox" electrically conductive grease used in residential elecrical wiring and available at Home Depot or any hardware store in the electrical wiring section.
Starting fluid is an excellent way to catch a car on fire, as I know from personal experience. On any modern car the mechanical temperature of the intake system will instantly turn the fluid into vapor that will create an educational fireball when it hits the exhaust system.
”Starting fluid is an excellent way to catch a car on fire, as I know from personal experience. On any modern car the mechanical temperature of the intake system will instantly turn the fluid into vapor that will create an educational fireball when it hits the exhaust system.”
I definitely agree there is that risk. The advantage of it over say...propane from a torch, is that any change in engine idle is probably quicker. I have used propane with success but you have to move slow around suspect areas to give the engine a chance to respond if it’s going to. There is a little advantage though of being able to more accurately find the location of the leak with the end of the propane torch. Helpful in some circumstances. These days I have a friend with one of those cool smoke machines.
But I think I’d still prefer to do stuff like that outside.