Ask Hagerty Knowledge Base
Hagerty Drivers Club members have exclusive access to the Ask Hagerty help desk. Our team of experts are ready to answer any and all automotive questions, from finding shops and services to historical data and vehicle valuation insights. Here is a look at some of the issues we've helped address.
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Question Greetings from the bush country of eastern Ontario I have a 1989 Mustang 5.0 convertible that has been afflicted with mold … I noticed it last fall and cleaned the interior sections I could get to with a mold spray and rags. Three of us spent hours cleaning the interior … and for some weeks things appeared to be fine. Then a few weeks ago, I went into the garage, opened the door to see the mold has returned. This can’t go on so I need a solution.   The car is in a heated garage with seven other vehicles. None of the other vehicles have been impacted with mold. Just the Mustang. Is there a product or process you can recommend? Is there a vaporizing product that would get into the heater, air conditioning ducts and in small crevasses? I’ve noticed that Meguiars has one for smells …  (https:∕∕www․meguiars․ca∕3M∕en_CA∕meguiars-ca∕products∕~∕Meguiar-s-Whole-Car-Air-Re-Fresher-Odour-Eliminator-G181302C-Black-Chrome-Scent-2-oz-57-g-6-Case∕?N=8757952+8763219+8763227+8763384+8764629+8766084+3289411070&preselect=3293786499+3294529206&rt=rud) Are you aware of one that vaporizes and kills mold? Does the interior need to be cleaned and then have a treatment of some sort applied to it? Is this issue covered under my insurance policy with Hagerty?  So many questions, so few answers. Thank you for whatever you can offer up in the way of assistance.   Answer Mold can be quite a problem as you have learned. When it comes to upholstery and carpets, water is unforgiving, and if the vehicle was not completely dried out it will produce mold. As the mold matures it will produce spores that will continue to regenerate. I would suggest you remove the seats and carpet. Since new carpet is readily available, it may be best to simply replace what’s in the car. If not, the rugs will need to be thoroughly cleaned and dried. Once the seats are out of the car, the covers will need to be removed, rinsed, and dried. The same goes for the foam padding. UV light will go a long way in killing the mold, think of mold as a vampire, it hates sunlight! So having the interior sit in the sun for a prolonged period will destroy the mold. After everything has dried, access the damage and decide if replacement is necessary. I would remove the door panels and other trim panels.  Clean and dry thoroughly and then determine if they will need replacement. Thoroughly clean and rinse the stripped interior of the car, then leave the windows down, which will allow airflow and hopefully prevent mold and mildew from forming. The convertible top and rear window well may also need to be removed as the padding will likely be sodden and may require replacement. Remove all contents from the trunk, including the spare tire, mat or carpet, and any trim panels. Thoroughly rinse the trunk area, including areas where the pan meets the quarter panel and outer wheel wells. Wax all interior panels after they are clean. Don’t forget to pull back or remove the weather stripping to remove any trapped water, before carefully washing and rinsing the area and the underside of the rubber. If you have access to an air compressor, use it to blow air to dry hard-to-reach spots. The perfect tool for this job would be the Bissell Steam Shot Deluxe. I have seen these at Wal Mart and on Amazon (rumor has it they are about $10 cheaper at Wal Mart!): https://www.amazon.com/Bissell-Hard-Surface-Cleaner-39N7A-39N71 The heating-A/C ductwork is a concern as it is possibly full of mold as well. Ideally, you want to disassemble and clean all the ductwork. However, you might be able to try and use a “Mold Bomb”. This may also save you from removing the top. With the interior still out I would have the car running with the A/C on and recirculating and then open the “Mold Bomb” and close the doors with the windows up. The chemicals should circulate into the A/C system and kill the mold. I see you can purchase these on Amazon as well:   https://www.amazon.com/Particulate-Suppresses-Treatment-Bathrooms-Basements/dp/B09C49Q5BK One last thought, it may be worth calling Hagerty Claims and opening a claim on this. I’m on the US side of the border so I’m a little sketchy on the full details of your Canadian policy, but I’m fairly certain mold damage is covered under your policy. If you need to start replacing carpet and upholstery and having to disassemble the dashboard it could get expensive it may be worth having it professionally serviced. I would call and review it with our claims department.  They can be reached  online at https://www.hagerty.ca/insurance/Claim or by phone at 855-451-4957 If I can be of any further assistance please do not hesitate to reach back out to me. Thank you for being a Hagerty Driver’s Club Member!
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Question I am thinking forward with a daughter not too far off from driving age.  I have interest in a 4wd, bench seat, two door pickup, large, '78-'82-ish.  A flatbed would even suit- you know the drill- large, safe, enough room for her hockey gear.   Answer This is something I have some expertise in with two daughters! I can tell you don’t spend a lot on the first vehicle or two as my experience has taught me they will spend a lot of time bouncing them off snowbanks, guardrails, various barriers at the gas pump, trees, and a few parked cars. I like your idea of some older heavy, big metal car from the 70s or 80s like we learned to drive in, however, the reality is the newer cars have much better crash ratings and are actually safer. Also, cars from our era are now collectible and getting expensive. I would look at 90's trucks, such as an old body style Ford or full-size Chevrolet pick-up if a truck is what you have your heart set on. Another couple of vehicles to consider, while not pickups are early 2000’s Chevrolet Trailblazers and Jeep Commanders which are just tanks in the snow and ice, have good mechanical reliability, are fairly inexpensive to repair, and yes plenty of space for hockey equipment. So there is some food for thought. If you have some specific questions I can help you with please feel free to reach back out to me. Thank you for being a Hagerty Driver’s Club Member!
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Question I am in the "process" of putting ideas on paper for a "pole barn" with some interest in a part of the building being a shop with lift for improved ability to wrench on vehicles.  Any thoughts on a place to look for ideas on a layout of that part of the barn,  coming from a guy with no experience?  Or insight on pole barn interior designers?   Answer Budget is always a factor and will ultimately control the project but I think it’s a great idea to design the garage you would love to have and then pull back some things to bring the project within budget yet retain the features you want to have.   You’ll first start by making a list of the purpose of the barn or building. Is this going to be a space used strictly for storage and a workspace or will you possibly do some entertaining in the space? Sketching a rough draft really helps as you’ll think of all the things you’ll be using the building for which will help you decide the size and building options you’ll need. This includes adding doors and windows and any overhangs you’ll want for the barn. And last, you can decide on the aesthetics like colors wainscoting, porches, and any other decorative items. For inspiration, I honestly found Pinterest to be a great place for ideas on the internet. I do have a few thoughts and highlights I can pass on from our Ask Hagerty Specialists” water cooler” session on this matter. When it comes to electrical you will need to consult your contractor as to how to layout your wiring and how many circuits and types of breakers you will need. My first suggestion is you can never have too many electrical outlets.  Not knowing the dimensions of your garage I think an outlet every 8- 10 feet will come in handy whether for lighting, portable vacuum cleaners, power tools, etc. Don’t forget some outlets in the ceiling. I have a couple of drop lights above my stalls I can pull down when I need them and then they retract back up when I’m done, I also like that old-time garage/dealership feel where you can pull things down into your stall and keeps the cords/air hoses off the floor. Some other considerations are what tools will be powered by the electrical. If you are running a welder, air compressor, or hoist you will have specific voltage needs that your contractor will be able to address. And I almost forgot…..you will need a fridge! If you are running a compressor also consider running hardlines across the garage along the walls. I have seen some guys run them along the wall with outlets to plug in a hose for airing up tires or power their air tools. I ran mine up on the ceiling with drop-down hose reels overhead to complete my old-time garage feel I forementioned. The other thing you cannot have too much of is storage. This can be shelving, cupboards or a combination of both or even a walk-in closet say to store bikes, patio furniture, mowers, or other seasonal items in. I personally do a lot of restoration work in my garage and I like shelves to store the parts on during disassembly as well as storing the parts I collect prior to the restoration.  Building these shelves fairly deep is a consideration as well. I also have an electrical outlet within my built-in shelves so I can plug in a trickle charger for my batteries during storage. Cupboards are nice because they look neat and tidy for your storage needs. These are great if built under or over your bench or workspace. If you have rafters above your workspace consider some storage up there. Maybe also consider a fold-up stairway so you can access it easily for storing larger parts such as fenders, seats, or the seasonal items I mentioned before. I have a 2 nd story with outside access for storing my larger parts and swapping out seasonal storage as well as a catch-all for stuff that probably needs to go to St. Vincent’s second-hand store. Speaking of workspace, this is another thing you cannot have too much of. Right now I have a carburetor apart on one end of my bench, a distributor in the middle, and some small parts I’m detailing on the other end. You will want several outlets on the back wall of your bench space as well as excellent lighting above it.  Consider you will most likely have a bench grinder you run on this bench, and maybe a drill press and other power tools. Some other things to consider are heat and maybe A/C. You might want to talk to a heating and cooling guy for your needs here. I have a friend in the business and he scored me a nice used unit to heat my detached garage using a propane tank. I bought a smaller tank I fill once a year because I’m not out there as much in the winter. If you are going to keep the garage around 40-50 degrees all winter maybe consider running a natural gas line directly out. As you know I’m in Northern Michigan so A/C is not a huge need, in fact, my wife says I’m ridiculous for considering this, but between you and me I’m on the lookout for a nice used window unit at a garage sale for those occasional balmy days! If you are going to entertain in the garage an A/C unit might be something to think about, as you and a few buddies are drinking a cold beverage and staring at the GTO on a warm afternoon. I mean you want to be comfortable right? The last thing to think about is water. Having a utility sink in your garage is priceless. Naturally, you can wash your hands in it before you come into the house, but also for light parts cleaning involving soap and water is nice option to have. It’s also nice to hook a hose to for washing your car. You will also want a couple of floor drains as well too. You might want to consider a bathroom if you’re going to be entertaining. At the very least maybe consider a urinal. I have a friend who installed one in a closet in his garage so he can hide it when not in use.
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Question I have an odd request on value for a sort of, but not really a Saleen Mustang. My car was part of a promotion by 7up where the cars were going to receive Saleen upgrades. They sat for a while after 7up dropped the promo and then had some of the updates done but were largely stored from what I'm seeing. I have mine insured for 32k on the value and wanted to update things. I'm seeing the non 7up cars going for quite a bit more and one of the sales I see a number on was 28k back in 2021 on Bring a Trailer. My car has 320 miles on it and has been stored since I picked it up and I’m trying to find a good value for it. That similar vehicle I found was sitting at 2400 miles and I don't know how much of a premium you'd command on a fox body with such low mileage and that kind of history. I know sales during COVID were all over the place, but I didn't see any mention of the edition on HVT.   Answer Thank you for reaching out to the Ask Hagerty expert service!   The 1990 Ford Mustang “Seven Up” cars are an interesting story. The Ford Motor Company collaborated with the soda company to create a “Seven Up” themed car for a contest that was later canceled. Ford produced 4103 of these Special Edition #562 paint cars and pumped them into dealer inventory with the last-minute cancelation of the promotion. That said, it’s a great story but we have yet to see it have any effect on value beyond any other Mustang models.   Currently these are how your vehicle breaks down in value according to the Hagerty Valuation Tool: https://www.hagerty.com/apps/valuationtools/1990-Ford-Mustang-5.0_LX?id=87651&vin=1FACP44E3LF172813   $32,500………..#1 Concours $19,100……….#2 Excellent $  9,800……….#3 Good $  6,800……….#4 Fair   If I can be of any further assistance, please do not hesitate to reach back out to me. Thank you for being a Hagerty Drivers Club member!
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Question I am looking for a scale model of a 1969 Ford Ranchero to give a gift.   Answer Thank you for reaching out to the Ask Hagerty Expert Service. This proved to be an interesting search. It seems the 1957-1965 Ford Ranchero is popular, then 1972 and newer there are a few scale models. I could not even find a resin kit or even a factory promo for that year. The only thing that I found was that Tonka Toys produced a set of 1969 Ford Rancheros that were part of an auto carrier set. Below are a couple of examples I found: This one is a little old for $42 plus shipping - https://www.ebay.com/itm/154861661725 Here is a partial set for with one Ranchero and a Mustang, and it has some patina and is for sale at $99.95 plus $49.50 shipping:   https://www.ebay.com/itm/255465908858 This one looks like the best, carrying all 1969 Ford Rancheros, and the condition looks really great, BIN for $149 + $25 shipping, only 7 hours left in the auction, maybe bid and buy it for less! https://www.ebay.com/itm/125267185733 No one has bid on it, I bet you could get it for $100. Let me know if I can be of any further assistance. Thank you for being a Hagerty Drivers Club member!
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Question I am looking for some recommendations on a reliable place in my area to get his Broncos repainted. Any recommendations would be appreciated. Thank you.   Answer Thank you for reaching out to the Ask Hagerty expert service! Here are a couple of nearby shops we would recommend checking out in your area. Mile High Classics -325 S Lowell Blvd Denver, CO 80219 email: info@milehighclassics.com PH (303) 379-9664 Rallye Coach Works - 3237 S Santa Fe Dr, Englewood, CO 80110 email: info@rallyecoachworks.com PH (303) 761-4401 Please let me know if there is anything else I can do.  Thank you for being a Hagerty Drivers Club member.
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Question I am looking for a water pump pully, 2 grove Part # 9799130XJ   Answer Thank you for reaching out to Ask Hagerty Expert Service! This pully looks like it should work but please let me know if you need more assistance. https://butlerperformance.com/i-24684284-pontiac-pontiac-2-groove-water-pump-pulley-1969-1-2-1970-w-4-50-water-pump-6-1-2-black-powdercoateda-c-applications.html Thank you for being a Hagerty Drivers Club member! 
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Question I have had some vapor lock issue on my 66 Chevy Corvair Corsa and also wanted to install an electronic fuel pump in my vehicle.   Answer Thank you for reaching out to the Ask Hagerty Expert Service! It is not unusual for carbureted cars to experience vapor lock on warmer days, mostly likely due to ethanol blended fuels. The alcohol boils at a lower rate than unblended fuel which turns it a vapor in the fuel line or carburetor.   You may even notice if the car has sat for a day or two it starts hard as the fuel has evaporated from the float bowls. Running recreation fuel solved that problem for me in my 1964 Pontiac, which is fuel without alcohol in it designed for marine and recreation vehicle use such as motorcycles. Another possibility is the carburetor may need a rebuild with upgraded rubber parts that are resistant to alcohol which can degrade the accelerator pump in the carburetor and the fuel pump. The upgraded parts will help your Corvair start up and run better. You can refer to the websites below to help you find alcohol free fuel in your area. https://www.pure-gas.org/ https://www.goldeagle.com/tips-tools/find-ethanol-free-gas-near-map/ I’m not sure Cliff’s HP will have a kit for your application, but if he does not, he will know who does, give him a call. Cliff’s HP – PH 740-387-2921 website:  https://cliffshighperformance.com/ Also, check with this source for a carb kit: Carburetor Doctor – PH 888-664-6462 website:  https://carbkitsource.com/index.html In terms of the electric fuel pump, this will indeed help as well. I would run a facet-style electric pump installed inline as close to the gas tank as possible, so it is pushing fuel back to the motor. You can still run your manual fuel pump and this along with the better fuel should eliminate any vapor lock. If I can be of any further assistance, please do not hesitate to reach back out to me.
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Question I am looking for a shop that can fill a windshield chip on his 2006 Ferrari. Safelight will not touch my Ferrari. Please help!   Answer Member, Thank you for reaching out to the Ask Hagerty Expert Service! I reached out to one of the shops in your area, Valor Performance in Canyon Lake. They recommend the following: L & M Glass PH 210-885-3163 website: https://lm-glass-company.business.site/ San Antonio, TX L & M has a mobile service, but Valor Performance also offered for you to drop your car off with them and they can set it all up for you. Here is their contact info: Valor Performance PH 830-865-1200 website: www.valorrestorations.com   Canyon Lake, TX If I can be of any further assistance, please do not hesitate to reach back out to me. Thank you for being a Hagerty Drivers Club Member!
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Question I am looking for the stock engine color for a 1968 Pontiac Firebird. I am touching up the overhead cam 6 cylinder 4.1 liter. A local shop recommended the Dupli-Color DE1616 Pontiac Blue Metallic but it doesn't match. I don’t believe that it is some kind of blue. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you!   Answer Member, Thank you for reaching out to the Ask Hagerty Expert Service! Correct paint tone for Pontiacs of all eras can be quite a topic among Pontiac Enthusiasts. Ames Performance is one of the leaders in providing the correct products Pontiac restorations. Their part number is FN410, but this appears to be a re-numbered Dupli-Color product. I am not sure which Dupli-color product it is. I use the Dupli-Color DE 1616, but as you noted it is not an exact match, close but not quite dead on. I have read if you spray a base coat of silver, such as VHT’s high temp base silver SP453, prior to spraying this color you get a better coverage and truer to stock color. I have heard repeatedly the most correct Pontiac tone comes the Bill Hirsch Auto. Here is a link to their site: Bill Hirsch Auto PH 800-828-2061 website: https://www.hirschauto.com/ $22 per can plus shipping – Link to part - https://www.hirschauto.com/AEROSOL-ENGINE-ENAMEL/productinfo/EEA-SPRAY/PON%20MET%20BL/ I have several fellow Pontiac Enthusiasts who swear this is closest you will get. If I can be of any further assistance, please do not hesitate to reach back out to me.
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Question I am hoping to get some recommendations for a 1 to 2 day cruise to do with friends starting in Muskegon. I am open to suggestions about where to travel in Michigan, but had mentioned Traverse City or the covered bridges.   Answer Thank you for reaching out to the Ask Hagerty Expert Service! It sounds like you have a great idea to get the cars out for a two-day cruise heading North from Muskegon. I would stick close to the shoreline heading North from Muskegon on 31. Depending on when you leave home Manistee is about 1. 5 north and a great place to maybe grab breakfast or a cup of coffee and check out the harbor and the unique Victorian downtown. Just North of Manistee you will connect with M-22 which will take you into Arcadia and up towards Frankfort along Lake Michigan with some amazing views. Frankfort has some amazing restaurants in its downtown, but I will note they have one of the remaining vintage A&W’s complete with drive-up service. https://awrestaurants.com/locations/michigan/frankfort/21-lake-street/. I also like the Cabbage Shed https://www.cabbageshed.com/. Cruising M-22 never gets old, taking you along the shoreline, past the Sleeping Bear Sand Dunes National Park in Glen Arbor up to Leland, which is another great stop. I would take the side trip off M-22 to the Pierce Stocking Scenic Drive which features spectacular views as well as a covered bridge! https://www.nps.gov/slbe/planyourvisit/pscoveredbridge.htm. I would continue heading to Leland for a picnic in Fishtown with sandwiches from the Cheese Shack which is a favorite of my family for lunch at The Cove. The owner of the Cove is a car guy and if he is there you might be able to talk him into a ride in his Amphibious Car! You can continue North to Northport and stop at the Grand Traverse Lighthouse. Circling back on M-22 you drive through Suttons Bay and into Traverse City. This route without stops is roughly 5 hours from Muskegon. If you take your time and stop for photos and eat at one of the many stops, I suggested, you might be ready to stop in Traverse City and spend the evening. I would stay at the Hotel Indigo https://www.hotelindigotraversecity.com/ which has excellent covered parking to keep the cars safe while you stroll through downtown. The next day I would head North again on US 31 towards Petoskey. US 31 North of Elk Rapids provides some great roads to stretch the legs of your fun car. Elk Rapids is a nice, quick detour to drive through the harbor. Petoskey has a great downtown but personally, I would stay to the shore and head towards Harbor Springs for the Tunnel of Trees on M-119 https://mymichiganbeach.com/m119-tunnel-of-trees/ and from there head to Pond Hill Farmshttps://www.pondhill.com/ for a little break and maybe a snack then continue on M-119 to the Good Hart General Store which is a great photo op https://www.goodhartstore.com/.  If I was up that far I have to cruise out Legg’s Inn in Cross Village http://www.legsinn.com/ . Great Polish food, unbelievable scenery, and just a neat little restaurant. From there it really depends on your intentions. You are just a short drive from the Straits of Mackinac, so you could call it a night in Mackinaw City or St. Ignace and then circle back the next day and head home. From the “Tip of the Mit” you are just under 2 hours from heading back to Traverse City. It is pretty much the same distance on to Cadillac but don’t rule out Boyne City either. The ride back towards home on US 131 is mostly two-lane North of Cadillac. There are a couple of great detours along the way. As I mentioned, Boyne City is a great little town to cruise through, you can take Ironton Ferry https://www.charlevoixcounty.org/ironton_ferry/index.php which is just kind of a fun quirky Northern Michigan thing to do and cut back across to US 31 and head south on 31. I like the stretch in Alba just south of Boyne Mountain, it is several miles of razor-straight highway that is flat, and you can see oncoming traffic and maybe blow the carbon out! Fife Lake is a neat little downtown south of Kalkaska on US 131, and the Fife Lake Inn is a great stop for food. So there are a few ideas for a cruise North. If you have a different idea in mind of the direction you want to cruise, say up the Lake Michigan Shoreline and then down the Lake Huron side, that would be a great run too. Let me know I can help you with some great stops. I will just leave the Fireside Inn as a great overnight in Presque Isle, MIhttp://www.firesideinngrandlake.com/ to give you some food for thought. If I can be of any further assistance, please do not hesitate to reach back out to me.
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Question I need an appraisal to get a title from the Secretary of State on a 1966 Bronco. I pulled vehicle out of farmers field - in rough shape - going to restore.   Answer Thank you for reaching out to the Ask Hagerty Expert Service! I hear you picked up a 1966 Bronco but there is no title. I’m guessing the Secretary of State office has already informed you of the following procedure: If you cannot locate the previous owner, it will be necessary to get: A Court Order - A court order awarding ownership of a vehicle can be used if the order includes the year, make, and vehicle identification number (VIN) of the vehicle; or    A Surety Bond - Without a court order, you must obtain a surety bond.  A surety bond is like an insurance policy, and is purchased by the applicant from an insurance company or bonding agency.  It must be for twice the fair market value of the vehicle ("fair market value" can be established by a dealer appraisal or a recognized vehicle appraisal guide).  The bond is posted for three years and is returned if no claims are filed during the three-year period, or   As a last resort when a Michigan vehicle title has been lost, destroyed, or stolen and the purchaser is unable to contact the previous owner for a duplicate title, a Michigan resident can self-certify ownership at a Secretary of State branch office if the vehicle is ten or more years old and valued at $2,500 or less. The self-certification procedure cannot be used for vehicles titled in another state or by nonresidents.            You will need to submit: a) A completed TR-205 Certification of Ownership (available on-line at all Secretary of State offices) stating you are the rightful owner of the vehicle and including the vehicle description, the true value of the vehicle, and a complete explanation of how, when, where, and from whom the vehicle was acquired; and b) Either of the following: A vehicle value appraisal completed by a licensed Michigan dealer, or A page printed from an on-line appraisal service such as Kelly Blue Book, N.A.D.A. Guides, Edmunds, etc.  (www.kbb.com, www.nadaguides.com, www.edmunds.com). On-line appraisal sites may provide multiple vehicle values (wholesale value, trade-in value, and retail value).  Any of these values showing a value of $2,500 or less may be accepted. You are most likely looking at option #2 or #3, and in either case you will need an appraisal. I would recommend Auto Appraise. This company is located in Michigan but inspectors across the country and offers a discount for Hagerty Drivers Club Members. Auto Appraise – PH (810) 694-2008 website: https://autoappraise.com/  Grand Blanc, MI  If I can be of any further assistance, please do not hesitate to reach back out to me directly.
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Question I am looking at getting a 1957 Chevy Bel Air as the 1957 Chevy has been my dream car since I was a kid. I ran across Woody's Hot Rods in my searching. They are authorized by GM to reproduce the 1957 Chevy bodies and they sell the shells but also build turnkey builds. I would also like to ask if there is anyone there that would be able to address some concerns about buying a new built 1957 Chevy. Mainly about how the industry is accepting new car build with all the modern technologies vs restoring/ retromodding an original car. Is there any resale value in the new built car if at some point you were wanting to sell it? And just looking for some opinions from knowledgeable people who also enjoy cars also. I appreciate your time to look at my email. Thanks.   Answer Thank you for reaching out to the Ask Hagerty Expert Service! These are no different than buying a Cobra Replica or even one of the Mustang reproductions currently on the market. These reproductions are a great place to start for resto-mod builds and Woody’s Rodz produces some very nice, high-end built cars. Using these newer bodies for these builds is the way to go, as you start with a solid, rust-free, and undamaged body and frame. You are also buying a new car not a rebuilt car. Resale on these cars is very good much like any well-built resto-mod on this Tri-Five platform. You may lose a little off the purchase price but looking at the current sales at auction you may very well break even with ownership over time. Keep in mind if you are having a car built to directly replicate a stock factory-built car, an authentic restoration of an original car will hold more value and be cheaper to buy. In that case, you may want to seek out a restored vehicle because as the old saying goes, “it’s cheaper to buy a restored car than to actually restore one!” But if you are building a resto-mod I think the route you are going is the best as you can build the car the way you want it. If I can be of any further assistance, please do not hesitate to reach back out to me.
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Question Hello Ask Hagerty,   I have had my 911S insured with Hagerty since 2010. It is now time to prepare to sell the car.  It is in original condition, a one family car with paperwork, and has won numerous awards.   My late husband ordered the car in 1973.  He maintained and drove it until his death in 2008.  After he died, the car was restarted in 2010.     In 2008, the car was insured for $15,000.  The first time, I insured the car with Hagerty, the insurance value was 60,000.  Hagerty Valuation Chart shows a #1 value of $61,600 for 2008.   In 2013, the 911S competed in Preservation at the PCA Travis City Parade.  It won the overall Preservation Award. On the Monday after the Parade, I drove the car to Hagerty for a valuation.  In 2013, the Hagerty Valuation Chart shows a #1 car at $180,000.  If I remember correctly, Hagerty valued the car at $300,000.  The insurance value of the 911 today is $300,000.     My question is:  How do I determine the true value of the 911S in 2008 for tax  purposes?     Thank you for your valuation advice.   Answer Member, Thank you for reaching out to the Ask Hagerty Expert Service! I really love stories such as yours and the 1973 Porsche. I think the longest I have owned a car was 10 years and these were our family daily drivers. My fun cars rarely stick around more than a couple of years. That said, I needed to reach out to an expert in this area. I spoke with Jason at Auto Appraise. Jason specializes in Estates and Divorces and is often employed as an expert witness in legal cases. He advised that there is no Capital Gains on vehicles for private owners. Further as you were married over 20 years this vehicle was as much yours as it was your husband’s even if it was titled in his name when purchased. Through marriage you are legal owner of this vehicle, and it is not part of an estate tax as a spouse. This is different for relatives who are inheriting items in an estate.   So based on this legal ownership you would not pay any Capital Gains. It is an amazing profit but no different than selling some antiques you might have in your attic that have some substantial value you have acquired over your lifetime. As Jason explained it, “We all buy things through in our lives, and some of these things lose value over time and others if we are lucky can increase in value. However, when we sell these things there is no real way to track these valuations and the loses and gains, so for the time being the IRS overlooks these transactions. “ If you have more questions on this matter, I would recommend you reach out to Jason at Auto Appraise for further discussion. His company is located in Michigan, but he works with clients across the country and is a trusted partner of Hagerty. He also is a valuable resource if you are looking for support in selling the vehicle. Here is his contact info: Auto Appraise – Jason Phillips - PH (810) 694-2008 website: https://autoappraise.com/   Grand Blanc, MI  Finally I would agree based on your discerption your Porsche would be valued as #2+ - #1-  and depending on the options and equipment could very well be worth close to $300,000. Finding the proper broker could help you maximize on your profits in a sale substantiating the broker fee. If I can be of any further assistance, please do not hesitate to reach back out to me. Thank you for being a Hagerty Drivers Club member.
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Question Happy Sunday Team Hagerty, Your cheerful colleague in the MI office Carlos, suggested I email your team in the hopes that we can work together to get my baby back on the road. You have insured my beauty for a few years now and I find myself in a pickle, unable to get her back on the road for too many months now. I replaced the pads & rotors in the fall preparing for a new registration and another year of enjoying one of the most magnificent vehicles that has ever been built. Unfortunately, the local shop that indicated I needed the brakes done to pass inspection encountered a need for caliper replacement and I have attempted to have a few shops complete this with a number of complications centered upon the driver’s side rear caliper which we have not yet located. We have the other 3 and are prepared to proceed if we can locate a new, used, or rebuilt drivers side rear that will get past NYS Inspection. Please be in touch if you are aware of a way to be helpful. Thank You in advance for your anticipated cooperation so that we can hopefully get back on the road again soon.   Answer Member, So sorry to hear about your brake woes! Few things are as bad as thinking you are ready to go for the season and hitting a roadblock like this. I found these: ​​​​​​​https://www.ebay.com/itm/265588731484?hash=item3dd6526e5c%3Ag%3A5DkAAOSw22ViKj2e&fits=Year%3A1987%7CModel%3A560SL%7CMake%3AMercedes-Benz I know this is for both rears, but they are available now. Please let me know if I can be of further assistance. Thank you for being a Hagerty Drivers Club member!
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Question Hi, I need an Expert shop to bond my body to the chassis. Someone who knows how professionally? (Preferably Within 50 miles from my house in California). My project is a 1965 Cobra replica. JBL chassis   Answer Member, Thank you for reaching out to the Ask Hagerty Expert Service! There is an excellent shop in your area that specializes in in fiberglass work. They are a perfect fit to help you with your Cobra Project. Johnny’s Custom Auto Body PH 408-848-2826 website: https://johnnyscustomautobody.com/ 275 Welburn Ave. #F-K, Gilroy, CA 95020 If I can be of any further assistance, please do not hesitate to reach back out to me.  
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Question I need help finding front brake rotors/calipers for 1975 AMC Hornet.   Answer Thank you for reaching out to the Ask Hagerty expert service! AMC parts can be tough to find but American Performance has the rotors and calipers in stock for your 1975 Hornet. American Performance PH 321-354-6875 Website: https://www.amclives.com/   Cocoa, FL  Rotors $335 - Link to part - https://www.amclives.com/products/brake-rotors-front-disc-set-of-2-1971-75-amc-w-kelsey-hayes-pin-type-calipers-limited-quantities-see-applications Caliper $392 – Link to part - https://www.amclives.com/collections/brakes/products/caliper-set-front-disc-brake-1-piston-kelsey-hayes-1971-75-amc-see-applications-no-core-required If I can be of any further assistance, please do not hesitate to reach back out to me.   Thank you for being a Hagerty Drivers Club Member!
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Question I am having steering box issues and would like suggestions on a smaller power steering box that would fit better with more clearance from headers without any modifications for my 1968 Camaro with small block 350. I have new headers, Headman's 1 and 7/8 Dia.   Answer Member, Thank you for reaching out to the Ask Hagerty expert service! If you are looking for a smaller steering box so your headers will clear, I would suggest the Classic Performance 500 Series Power Steering Box. It has a 14:1 ratio and provides excellent road feel with firm steering. Summit Racing carries this box. Summit Racing PH 800-230-3030 Website: https://www.summitracing.com/ Tallmadge, OH $378.99 - Link to part -https://www.summitracing.com/parts/clp-cp50004#applications   If I can be of any further assistance, please do not hesitate to reach back out to me. Thank you for being a Hagerty Drivers Club Member!
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Question My husband recently passed, our '46 Chevy pickup will remain with me until later this year, when my brother-in-law has completed the garage that he is building. I am looking for advice on shipping the vehicle from my home in FL to Springfield, MO. Thanks!   Answer Member, I am sorry to hear about your loss and understand this can be a stressful time for you and your family. Ask Hagerty is here to help in anyway we can to make this process easier. The following company specializes in transporting vehicles back and forth from Florida to Michigan and I think would be my first call. They are great company and I have used them myself before: Doubletime Transport PH 231-9292-8981 website: https://doubletimetransport.com/ Traverse City, MI I would also recommend the following transport companies: Reliable Carriers   PH 800-521-6393 website: https://reliablecarriers.com/ Canton, MI – This company specializes in transporting vehicles anywhere in North America and offers a discount for Hagerty Drivers Club Members. Intercity Lines PH 800-221-3936 website: https://intercitylines.com/ Warren , MA This company serves the entire North American Continent If I can be of any further assistance, please do not hesitate to reach back out to me.   Thank you for being a Hagerty Drivers Club Member!
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Question I am looking to sell my 1967 Ford Mustang along with my 1947 Robin Hood Travel Trailer. I reviewed values for the Mustang online but was unable to find any for the travel trailer. It is the small and rounded body travel trailer, and it is in fair condition. I was hoping to get an idea on value. I would like to sell both but am having a hard time finding a place to sell them. Is there anywhere near Holland, MI that I might be able to go to sell them.   Answer Member, Thank you for reaching out to the Ask Hagerty expert service! Selling a car can be quite an adventure, let alone, knowing how to begin the process. The internet is a wild and crazy place to be when it comes to researching sites to sell your vehicle, but I am here to assist and guide you in the right direction. Below is everything you need to know to get started in selling your classic vehicle. Selling it yourself You can market the car yourself; this will have the least expenses so potentially you make a little more money for yourself. However, this means you must do all the leg work such as take photos, create an appealing write up and then load it up on a website. The more popular and far-reaching the web page the better you will do. Looking at the Hagerty Valuation Tool for your car I see the values for your Mustang range from $9,800 - $29,000 depending on the condition. You can look at these values here: https://www.hagerty.com/valuation-tools/ford/mustang/1966/1966-ford-mustang?id=aCn1I000000DKcDSAW&search=q%3D1967%2520Ford%2520Mustang%2520Base%26submodel%3DBase%26bodyStyleConfig%3D2dr%2520Coupe%26engineDescription%3D6-cyl.%2520200cid%252F120hp%25201bbl%26p%3D1 Looking at similar trailers to your 1947 Robin Hood on the market I think the market value is $8,000 - $16,500 depending on the condition. Naturally, your Ford Mustang and adding the trailer makes this a pretty neat bundle to buy as a package or sell separately and has some decent value in the collector car market depending on the condition. I will tell you the better the photos and your write up the better the car will perform in a sale. If you are not in a huge hurry, I would be happy to help you with your ad through some back-and-forth email correspondence and provide you with some coaching on what photos to take. I would consider the following sites: Hagerty Classifieds: website - https://www.hagerty.com/drivers-club/my-garage/how-it-works/sell Hagerty Drivers Club members receive free listings. This is a member to member site so you can trust you are selling to an automotive enthusiast. The website is easy to use, again the better the write-up and your photos the better your success. Facebook Market Place: website - https://www.facebook.com/marketplace  Most often the sale is local which can be less intimidating than working with a buyer on payment and shipping far away. The buyer shows up with cash and leaves with your car, very simple. eBay: website - https://www.ebay.com/ I have had great luck advertising here, but it is a little more work. It costs $25-$75 depending on the package you use to advertise on eBay. If you get the right two folks bidding on your car you can do quite well. Collecting payment can be tricky, but your friends at Hagerty can help find a way to get paid that you feel most comfortable with. The buyer handles his own shipping. Hemmings -  PH 800-227-4373 website: https://www.hemmings.com/classifieds/packages/carsforsale  Ads are reasonable, and their auctions do well and the price is competitive with Bring a Trailer. They do have a wide-reaching audience in North America. Bring a Trailer:  https://bringatrailer.com  They charge $99 if you take the photos or for an additional $250, you can have one of their agents come out and take the photos. They also will work with you quite a bit on the write-up as well. You provide them with the details, and they create the final draft. Same thing here, you must work out payment with the buyer and the buyer arranges their shipping. This link will show you how well similar Mustangs have done on the site, which I think is pretty good. https://bringatrailer.com/search/?s=1966+Ford+Mustang Selling through a Dealer This is the easiest option. You get the car to the dealer, they clean it up, take photos and create a write and market the car for you. You basically, just wait for the check to come. Of course, they will charge you a fee to detail the car, a marketing fee, and then a commission. But a good organization usually offers to finance, works out the payment, shipping, etc. They will typically get the best money for the car. I can recommend the following dealer : Garage Kept Motors – PH 616-888-3230 website: https://www.garagekeptmotors.com/ Garage Kept Motors is located in Grand Rapids, MI but they are in my opinion one of the best classic car dealers in the business. Jeremy and AJ are true enthusiasts and very knowledgeable. Most importantly, they are probably two of the most honest and upfront professionals in the business. Their cars go all over the world. Their prices are also very fair. I have sold three cars with them in the last year and the process could not have been easier. I’m guessing it will cost about a couple hundred dollars to ship the car and trailer to them but they will make it up in ease of sale for you and final price. Give them a call, let them know Hagerty referred you. I am happy to help you in any way we can with getting you through the selling process or answering any questions you might have. Feel free to reach back out to me with any questions. Thank you for being a Hagerty Drivers Club Member
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